The Happy Cruisers Go to South Africa: The Polentswa Wilderness Trail

The highlight of the Kgalagadi was our three days in the bush with no fences between us and the wild on the Polentswa 4X4 Wilderness Trail. Access is controlled and you are allowed to drive on the trail in groups of two to five vehicles a day. Ours were the only two vehicles on the trail and we saw no other humans for three days.

The first night was uneventful in the Polentswa camp. Marius relaxed and studied the route we were to take on his GPS while Chris, always looking for an adventure tried to get a 4 foot long Puff Adder to come out of a bush. He got quite a scolding from all of us even though he used to work in a reptile park with snakes in Durban!

At the trail head

Studying the trip route

Chris teasing the Puff Adder in the bushes

Day Two’s activities included driving through the first white clay pan called Tweeling Rambuka. Chris and I tested the depth by walking through. He went all the way across but I retreated after the little creatures in the water started tickling my legs. Yikes!! The pans are depressions in the land where water evaporates faster that it is replaced. Most hold water after a heavy rain but dry up quickly into hard crusty and cracked surfaces. The Cruiser hauled through the slimy stuff with no problem. Kalima had to gas it through in the 4x4 rental but also made it without any problems.

Enter at your own risk!!

Assessing the pan

Tweeling Rambuka Crossing

We stopped along the trail for some of Marius’ bully beef, beans and onion.

View of the trail

Chris helping with brunch

Danger, men cooking!

Devil's Thorn

The Kalahari Desert was in full bloom following recent rains. The yellow Devil’s Thorn flowers blanketed the ground for miles. I could not imagine how they got their name. They were so delicate and fragile looking.

Sociable Weaver nest in a dead tree over a blanket of Devil's Thorn

We decided that the Devil's Thorn must be holding a secret that is revealed well into the dry season. The Cat’s Tail, Desert Lilies and Nerine only last a short while after the summer rains so we timed it perfectly.

Desert Lily

Cat's Tail

Nerine

Even butterflies need water in the Kalahari

That night we spotted two lionesses eyeing some Eland about 300 yards from our campsite at Sesatswe. They watched us after the Eland left and then disappeared into the bush. The next morning we found these two fellows right outside our camp. Fortunately for the Hartebeest and Gemsbok they took a greater interest in Chris and Kalima. One of them laid down right in the shade of their vehicle giving the occupants quite a thrill!

Sesatswe Camp

Lucky for the Hartebeest and Oryx they were more interested in us!

They are VERY big lions when they are up close!

Day Three we reached Chris’ dream destination – a place called Kaa which means “nothing”. I asked him what the significance was and he said, “It is just in the middle of nowhere and I wanted to say I’d been here!” Kaa is the site of the most remote entrance to the Kgalagadi from the Botswana side.

Chris and Kalima at Kaa Campsite #1

The third night we camped at Lang Rambuka. We put our vehicles a little closer together, knowing for sure there were lions close by even though we could not see or hear them. We had a great dinner and sat around the campfire under an almost full moon before climbing into our rooftop tents.

Moved the vehicles closer together at Lang Rambuka

A bigger fire too!

It wasn’t long before we heard an owl in the tree above our tent with a deep, throaty WHOO-HOOOO. Hearing the soothing sound, I fell fast asleep. In the morning, sure enough, we spotted this group of feisty boys and girls on the pan fronting our campsite.

Comparing a lion paw to Marius' hand

As we reached the end of the trail this Secretary Bird landed right in front of the Cruiser to bring a close to our adventures on the Polentswa Wilderness Trail.

Secretary Bird

Sleeping in the bush was amazing and something I will never forget!!

We made our way back to Nossob for fuel that night and split up, with Chris and Kalima heading to Mata Mata and Marius and I taking a sand trail to Bitterpan.