Victoria Falls

Mosi-Oa-Tunya (The Smoke that Thunders)

The first European siting of Victoria Falls by Dr. David Livingstone was on November 16, 1855.  In 1851, he first heard of the great waterfall, but it was not until 1855 that he set out to visit it in the company of indigenous people of the falls area.  He spent a night on the Kalai Island a few kilometers upstream of the falls, having come down the river by canoe.

The next morning he set off in a small canoe to approach the thundering smoke.  He landed on the biggest island on the lip of the falls, now called Livingstone Island, where he obtained his first view of the falls.  

Of the surrounding area, he wrote: “the most wonderful sight I had witnessed in Africa.  No one can imagine the beauty of the view from anything witnessed in England.  It had never been seen before by European eyes, but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.” (Livingstone 1857)

We visited Victoria Falls at the end of the rainy season.  We could see columns of spray from miles away as more than five hundred million cubic meters of water per minute plummeted over the edge, over a width of nearly two kilometers into a gorge over one hundred meters below.  The wide, basalt cliff over which the falls thunder, transforms the great Zambezi from a placid river into a ferocious torrent cutting through a series of dramatic gorges.

View of the Falls from Zimbabwe

Facing the falls on the Zimbabwe side is another wall of basalt topped with a mist-laden rain forest.  We rented raincoats and walked along the edge of the forest braving the tremendous spray.  It was, at times, like standing under a shower head with our clothes on but then the mist would clear and we would captured a spectacular view.  

The Road Bridge from Zimbabwe to Zambia

We crossed the road bridge at the border crossing into Zambia and experienced a different view of the falls.

 

From the Zambia side we were able to see the Victoria Falls Bridge, funded by the famous Cecil John Rhodes and completed in 1905 as a crucial link in the railway route north.  The bridge was manufactured in England and shipped to Africa for assembly.  The two center girders of the arch were in place by sunset on March 31, 1905 but they overlapped by one and a quarter inches.  When work started the next morning at sunrise, it was found that the bridge had contracted in the night and the two center girders had dropped into place fitting perfectly!  April Fools?  I don't think so!   

No raincoats in Zambia but the green garbage bag worked to keep the camera dry!

An internet downloaded aerial view of the Falls and the Railway Bridge for perspective.

Side Trip to Zimbabwe's Hwange National Park

We decided that before we headed into Zambia that we would back track a bit and head south out of Kasane to the Pandamatenga border crossing to visit the northwestern corner of Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe.  When we arrived at the border there was not a human to be found!  Instead we were greeted by clouds of stink bugs that seemed to be everywhere – including in our hair, clothes and vehicles.  Marius and Collin went to find someone to process our paperwork and our fear of crossing the border into Zimbabwe was soon eliminated with some of the nicest guys and most efficient paper processing of the entire trip.  We passed through the Matetsi Safari Area and headed into Hwange.

A Giant Kingfisher 

Gate to Robin's Camp

Our first stop was Robin’s Camp named after Herbert George Robins, an Englishman who acquired Little Tom’s Spruit in the Wankie District of Southern Rhodesia in 1912.  There he farmed cattle and experimented with his scientific instruments.  He built a clock tower to observe the surrounding land and over the years acquired approximately 25,000 acres which he bequeathed to the Southern Rhodesian Government in 1939 on the condition that it be maintained for all time as a game sanctuary.

View of Robin's Camp from the Clock Tower

Campsite at Robin's Camp

Priority #1 - Cold Beer

The Bar at Robin's Camp

Although we did not see many animals in Hwange, I did see my first Grey Crowned Crane during a lunch stop at the Masuma Dam Picnic Area.  The sun was intense so we opened our Bat Wing awning and Collin pulled out his umbrella for a bit of shade.   As we were packing up our lunchables two park rangers found us.  It turns out that they were stranded without a functioning radio and should have been picked up two days prior. They were thirsty and one of them was ill.  We gave them water and imodium and promised to contact the other rangers when we reached our next stop at Sinamatella.

Collin finding some relief from the sun.

We drove on to Sinamatella and camped on an outcrop 55 meters high overlooking a distant riverbed and vast open plain.  We were greeted by Godfrey Khanye who was the perfect host.  We were the only campers at Sinamatella.   We congratulate the staff for doing so much with minimal resources. 

Sinamatella Entrance

Our campsite on the outcrop.

Godfrey Khanye and Marius

The VIEW from Sinamatella

Although the ablution at Sinamatella has seen better days, it was clean and the showers were hot at 7:00 a.m. thanks to Godfrey who arose early to build a fire in the donkey boiler.

A grey foam-nest tree frog sitting on the door frame in the shower stall. (Photo by Carol)

Sunrise

That night the moon was full and a hyena quietly strode through our camp looking for leftovers.  We did not see it, but we saw its tracks in the morning.  

Hyena Spoor (track)

The restaurant was closed as the roof was being repaired.  Regardless, we had brought everything we needed and found this to be a beautiful camp with a breathtaking view. 

Restaurant undergoing repairs.

 We wanted to stay longer at Sinamatella, an unexpected gem, but were on a tight schedule in order to get to our next stop – Victoria Falls before the end of the day.

Our AWESOME travel companions - Collin and Carol

Rendevous in Botswana

After touring through the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (Gemsbok National Park on this map) in the southwestern part of Botswana  so rich with game and bird life, I was thrilled to be back in Botswana.  I took a connecting flight from Johannesburg, landed at the Kasane airport and was very happy to see Marius, Collin and Carol.  They had met up in Palapye and driven together through Francistown, Nata and on to Kasane.  Kasane is a town in the far northeastern corner of Botswana, where four countries meet – Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe.  The town lies on the south bank of the Chobe River and is at the north-eastern boundary of Chobe National Park.  It is a popular access point to the Park, the Okavango Delta, the Caprivi Strip (Namibia) and Victoria Falls.

Kasane Airport

We headed into town for lunch.  On the way, I heard about, but did not see until later, the official mascot – an elephant who likes to drink from a leak in a water pipe just outside of town.

Kasane's Town Mascot

We picked up some supplies and then headed into the Chobe National Park.  It just so happens that Carol’s cousin Tania and her husband, Johan are the managers at the five star Chobe Game Lodge close to Kasane and inside the park.  They have lived in this breathtakingly beautiful setting for the past 10 years! www.chobegamelodge.co.bw  

Chobe Game Lodge is “leading the way for responsible tourism in Botswana” with innovative recycling programs and participation in community development projects.  They also have the only all-female guiding crew in Botswana – the Chobe Angels!!

The Lodge is literally surrounded by elephants that can be observed from the board walks and observation decks that are situated above the river bank.  Kudu, hippo and a wide variety of birds are always near. Warthogs take advantage of the freshly watered green grass and baboons keep a close watch from the perimeter of the grounds hoping for a possible treat.

Warthogs trimming and then fertilizing the grass (Photo by Carol)

Breeding herd of elephants at the beach!  View from deck at the lodge.

A curious youngster (Photo by Carol)

A brand new baby still has its fur.  (Photo by Carol)

A Great White Egret in the Chobe River

We stayed two nights and experienced spectacular sunsets, an early morning game drive, an afternoon river cruise and Collin even had a massage.  A perfect day ended with a mouthwatering evening meal on one of the decks overlooking the Chobe River complete with excellent company, linens, wine, candlelight, a clear sky and almost full moon!!

Sunset the first evening at Chobe Game Lodge

Early Morning Game Drive

Sunrise 5/12/14

Collin and Marius

Khori Bustard - heaviest bird capable of flight (wingspan 7 - 9 feet)

Elephants and Giraffe

Yellow Bellied Greenbull

Afternoon Boat Ride

Cruising down the Chobe River  (Photo by Carol)

Collin - enjoying the ride  (Photo by Carol)

Egyptian Goose, African Darter, White Faced Ducks and a Blacksmith Plover

Houseboat for rent on the Chobe

A fun day at the beach!!

The second sunset at Chobe Game Lodge - two perfect evenings in a row!!

Dinner with Tania and Johan under the stars (and the moon)

Planning the route through Zambia (Photo by Carol)

We absolutely reveled in luxury and cannot thank Tania and Johan enough for their delightful company and outstanding hospitality!!

P.S.
Carol got this great shot of a little Blue Waxbill (Blousysie in Afrikaans), comparable in size to a finch, while we were exiting the Chobe National Park.  There was a flock of them in the tree near the exit gate. This one had no fear letting Carol get very close!

Blue Waxbill  (Photo by Carol)